Furnace Repair: Control Module and Pilot Replacement

Overview

Our Comfort Maker furnace (Model FBF100F14A4) starting acting odd at the end of last winter; when the ignitor would start the pilot, the control module would click twice and that clicking became slower and slower as the winter progressed.  Eventually, around March, it seemed as if it would stop altogether.  Fortunately it didn’t.

There are only two parts in the ignition system, the control module and ignitor.

Using the technical support manual that came with the furnace, the part numbers were cross referenced with the replacement items from Honeywell using RepairClinic.com.  Purchased the replacement parts from there as well; the control module here and the ignitor here.  Everything was in stock, shipped quick.  But the items can be purchased for a lot less on Amazon.

Honeywell control module module number:  S8610U3009
Ingnitor part number: 011483

In case you’re working on the same furnace, and don’t have a copy of the TSM, here it is:

ComfortMaker_FBF100F14A4_TechSupportManual


Getting Started

A word of caution: this process will be specific to this particular furnace.  Yours will probably be different.

To get started, at the thermostat set the furnace to Off.  Also, flip the power switch that (should) be located on the side of the furnace.  Lastly, turn off the gas.  Remove any access panels on the front of the furnace.

Furnace_Ignitor_07 Furnace_Ignitor_15 Furnace_Ignitor_01

 

 

 

 

 

Locate the items to be replaced.  The control module is located on the right side, mounted to a bracket.  The ignitor is located under the burner.  A couple sheet metal screws secure the bracket to the side of the furnace, remove both.

Furnace_Ignitor_02 Furnace_Ignitor_05 Furnace_Ignitor_08

 

 

 

 

 

The wire connectors are a tight fit, be sure to pull on the connector itself and not the wire.  Pulling on the wire could cause it to come out of the connector, or worse make an intermittent connection.  If needed grip the connector with needle-nosed pliers.

Move the wires from the old module to the new, with one exception:  the wire that was on connector 6, 24V, should be connected to TH-W on the new controller.  The module will not work if this is not done.  The LED diagnostic will not light up and the ignitor will not ignite.

Furnace_Ignitor_09 Furnace_Ignitor_11 Furnace_Ignitor_10 Furnace_Ignitor_18

Once the module is wired and mounted, proceed to the ignitor installation.  This process is straight forward, but caution must be exercised with manifold.  It’s an aluminum tube that can distort and bend quite easily.

Remove the two screws that hold the ignitor bracket in place, located under the burner.  Next, using a 7/16″ wrench, remove the brass fitting on the valve.  Remove the assembly.

Furnace_Ignitor_13 Furnace_Ignitor_12

Remove the brass fitting from the ignitor using a 1/2″ to hold the ignitor, and a 7/16″ wrench on the brass.  Again, be aware of the aluminum tube.  Transfer the mounting bracket and reverse the above process to install the new ignitor.  Be sure to secure the wire away from the burner, follow the manifold if possible.

Furnace_Ignitor_14

Test all the connection making sure all electrical and mechanical connections a secure.  Turn on the gas and check for an leaks.  Next, turn on the switch and finally the thermostat.

Job completed!

4 comments for “Furnace Repair: Control Module and Pilot Replacement

  1. October 18, 2014 at 7:37 am

    Nice info. Now the next thing you could do would be get a thermostat that works with your wifi (or hardwired) so you can check the temp of your house when you are at work with your cell phone. or change the temps.

    • Dave
      October 18, 2014 at 8:58 am

      Thanks!

      Agreed.. but I don’t want a device that’s gathering data and sending it off somewhere (ala Nest).

  2. May 15, 2015 at 1:31 pm

    Thanks for the information! At first I thought that the pilot light in my furnace went out, until I realized that it needs to be completely replaced. I agree, the wire connector are a tight fit. What’s a good way to make sure that I pull on the connector and not on the wire? I keep grabbing the wire by accident when I’m trying to go for the connector.

Comments please!