New Computer Build: Small and Silent

I was commissioned to build a couple small and silent computers.  The idea behind the specification list is that the computers will be powerful enough to last for a few years and have Windows 7 installed (Windows 8 computers are all that can be had through retail channels at this point).  Everything was spec’ed and purchased from Newegg, as they usually have the best deals and free shipping on most items.  Here’s the build list:

Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced Case
Cooler Master Elite Power Supply
Asus P8H61-I Mini-ITX Motherboard
Intel Core i5 2500k CPU Sandy Bridge
G.Skill Ripjaws 8GBx2 RAM
Western Digital 250GB SATA 6.0 Hard Drive
Asus 24x DVD Burner
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit

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Before assembly, be sure to have a clear and clean work area, and most importantly be sure to wear a grounded wrist-strap and work on an anti-static mat.  Both are inexpensive and will avoid doing damage to your components.  Mine is part of a 3M ESD system, which is the blue mat seen in the pictures.  At the very least, use a wrist strap attached to a ground point, such as the computer case.  More information on what ESD is and the importance of taking precautions.

Also, some basic tools are needed even though this is a “tool-less case”.  I find a good quality #2 philips screwdriver, a 5mm nut driver (for the standoffs) make the job go more smoothly.  For zip tie work, a cable tie gun is nice to have, or a pair of side cutters.  Oh, and extra small zip ties.

There are two computers to build, so David is building one while I build the other.  Jonathan is on camera duty.  I always begin with the mainboard, mounting the CPU then the RAM.  Follow the instructions included with the CPU and take your time, it’s critical to orientate the CPU properly before closing the ZIF socket.  The RAM is next, noting the slot is not directly centered and like the CPU must be correctly orientated as well.  Press until it clicks into place.

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Next, prep the case for the component installations.  There are a few items that will be installed, so moving all the wiring out of the way first makes the job go a bit easier.  Once wiring has been move to the outside of the chassis, install the motherboard plate on the back of the case.  This is a friction fit, and takes a bit of force to click into place.  Next, the brass standoffs are installed using little pressure to tighten.  Now place the motherboard and secure with four screws.

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Another important step is to route and secure wires so that they do not interfere with fans or airflow.  A side benefit is that the installation look neat and clean.  Once the chassis fan has been plugged into the motherboard, install the hard drive and DVD drive.  For this case, the front cover is removed to gain access to the 5 1/4″ cover plate.  Remove that plate and re-install the front cover.  Since this is a tool-less case, all drives are held in place using built-in brackets that pressure-fit the drives.  Connect the data cables.  Connect the case cable to the motherboard, power switch and power LEDs, etc.

Next, and final piece of hardware to install, is the power supply.  Probably the most unwieldy part also, as the cables seem to have a mind of their own.  Again, it is key to keep the cables neat by using zip ties

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Double-check that all components have to appropriate power connections and plug in the power cord.  Most motherboards have a LED that indicated the power supply is connected.  Once that is good, press the power button.  Enter the BIOS first and make sure that the CPU, RAM, hard drive and DVD are all correctly represented.  This board happens to have the new UEFI style interface setup which has a nice GUI, and replaces the older BIOS.  Time to install Windows!

P1030537 Windows Home Premium x64 Installation

The manufacturer of the motherboard supplies a CD (or DVD) that will have all the necessary drivers to get the various components working within the Windows environment   This would include things like the Ethernet adapter, sound and video.  I usually install the Ethernet driver first, then go to the manufacturer’s website to download the latest drivers.  This should be done periodically as these are updated to fix bugs or if optimizations or features have been added.

The final product:

Finished Finished - Front Finished - Rear View

 

 

Gallery of all the pics:

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